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Madrasahs of Registan Square, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Published by Irhal

Samarkand, a city that lies at the heart of the ancient Silk Route is steeped in Islamic architecture. The three turquoise domed monuments to a gloried past in Registan Square are fascinating examples of a history that is being carefully restored to captivate the awe and admiration of tourists from around the world who are now discovering this ancient city of Uzbekistan.

The three madrasahs of Registan Square in Samarkand

The three beautiful buildings that form a U-shape in the center of Registan Square are actually madrasahs. The term “madrasah” in Arabic means school. The yellow buses used for transporting children to and from school in the Middle East have the words “hafla madraseah” written on them – “school bus.” But across the rest of the world, the word “madrasah” has been conflated with Islamic school or as Western media would like you to believe – a terrorist training school.

A vast expansive courtyard with lush green gardens on either side leads to what was once the epicenter of learning in the Muslim world. On the left is the Ulugh Bek Madrasah built in 1417 during the time of the Timurid Empire that extended from Delhi in the East across what is now Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, parts of Turkey and Syria as well as most of Central Asia.

Tilla-Kori Madrasah at Registan Square
The Tilla-Kori Madrasah

The central madrasah and what appears to have the most beautiful turquoise domed and spectacularly tiled façade and minarets is the Tilla-Kori Madrasah. On the right is the Sherdar Madrasah named after the “sher” or lions on its façade.

The gravitas of Registan Square is incomparable. No modern-day seats of learning exude the kind of grace and majesty of the place. The triumvirate of Harvard, MIT and Boston University located in the greater Boston area perhaps come close to Registan Square in terms of proximity but the architectural design of Samarkand’s madrasahs leave you stunned.

Sherdar Madrasah with lion and deer mosaics
Sherdar Madrasah with lions and deer, Samarkand

Pass through the haloed arches to enter the Sherdar Madrasah and you see a central courtyard surrounded by numerous cubicles.

An arch opening into the courtyard of Sherdar Madrasah
The arch
The central courtyard of Sherdar Madrasah
Central courtyard of Sherdar Madrasah

These cubicles were student cells where they studied and slept. Most of the scholars came from distant cities as the madrasahs had a retinue of some of the finest scholars of the time.

Entrance to an individual student cell
Individual student cells
Exterior of a student cell at Sherdar Madrasah
Student Cells

In the age of AI when gilded cages are no longer required to impart education, these student dorms have now been converted into centers of entrepreneurial acumen aimed at reviving the lost art of the tradesmen who sold their wares to gullible travelers breaking their journey at caravan serais enroute to Europe or China. The target of their entrepreneurial skills are you and I when we stop to admire the silk robes or ceramic tiles that adorn the shelves inside what once used to be student cells.

Souvenir swords and shields inside a former student cell
Swords, shields and other tourist entrapments
Ceramic tiles, ornate caps and artworks for sale
Memories for sale – Islamic design tiles, ornate caps and works of art

While many student dorms of Sherdar Madrasah have been converted into shops, the Ulugh Bek Madrasah has re-created class rooms and preserved some of the artifacts that were used in the madrasah centuries ago.

Re-created classroom teaching scene at Ulugh Bek Madrasah
A re-created class room – "Teaching process by the Mudarris”
Museum displays inside Ulugh Bek Madrasah
Parts of the madrasah have been converted into a museum
A 19th-century textbook lithograph and compass
A 19th century textbook lithograph and a compass
Re-created gathering of scholars
A gathering of scholars
Mirzo Ulugh Bek with mathematicians and astronomers
Mirzo Ulugh Bek on right – a ruler, mathematician and astronomer

Ulugh Bek ruled over parts of the vast Timurid empire for only two years until he was overthrown by his own son who had him killed. While his governance skills were questionable, Ulugh Bek was notable for his work in astronomy-related mathematics, such as trigonometry and spherical geometry, as well as his general interest in the arts. He built the Ulugh Bek Observatory in Samarkand and even has a crater on the moon named after him.

List of subjects taught at the madrasah
Not your typical Islamic school – subjects taught at the madrasah

While Islamic studies and Tafsir (exegesis or commentary of the Quran) were taught at the madrasah, the students received a well-rounded education. From philosophy and logic to astronomy, mathematics and algebra all subjects were taught. Poetry and medicine were also part of the curriculum. No wonder scholars came from faraway lands to study here.

Gold and turquoise prayer room at Ulugh Bek Madrasah
Gold and turquoise blue to calm the spirit while praying

A prayer room has also been preserved at the Ulugh Bek madrasah. The intricate design of the walls and ceilings gives an insight into the craftsmanship of the workers who built it – all conforming to strict geometrical patterns.

Gilded ceiling of the prayer room
Gilded ceiling of the prayer room
Turquoise dome with intricate tilework
Turquoise dome and intricate tile design

The architecture of the madrasahs of Samarkand are testaments to human skill and the scholastic work that was generated within these venerable walls are the building blocks of astronomy and mathematics that power today’s space flights. While we marvel at today’s scientific successes, we must remember the Islamic scholars who were founts of knowledge. Samarkand was just one of many such places where the golden age of Islamic civilization was nurtured.

Samarkand, Uzbekistan, is a great place to visit. It is inexpensive and you can cover most of the city in 2 or 3 days.

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