Yemen

Sanaa

Sana'a is the capital and the largest city of Yemen, home of the Sana‘a Governorate. It is also the world’s fastest growing capital city, and is not immune to the social and technological problems faced by rapidly developing third world capitals. Sana'a contains around 1.7 million residents.

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A CLOSER LOOK

Top places to visit

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What to do with Children in Tow

Sana'a is not really much of an amusement for children, unless your six year old has a hereditary interest in anthropology or history. Yemeni children have few activities besides running about in streets populated by men with daggers – not much of a concern for the mothers, as there are no kidnappers or pedophiles around. It is pretty common to see a swarm of kids rolling along a street or public square, chasing anything from a stray dog to a worn-out tire – this in itself provides ample entertainment for a group of toddlers accompanying you.

Skyscrapers

The neighborhood contains multistoried residential buildings, some of which have been standing for more than four centuries. Constructed out of local basalt stone and ornamented with intricately carved friezes and moldings, the facades of these houses form a continuous, harmonious urban fabric that can, when viewed at a distance, generate a splendid skyline as a backdrop for the modern city, and, when viewed up close, give a nostalgic but welcoming feeling that leaves many a traveler spellbound.

City Wall and Gate

The seven centuries old, 40 feet high mud wall that goes around the old city is also quite well-preserved, and is a sight in itself. It contains the Bab-al-Yemen, a large portal that celebrates the entrance into the old city. Out of the original six gates that marked the entry into Sana'a, it is the only one surviving in its original shape. Slip into a time warp as you pass through the large gate, being sucked into a busy marketplace that has existed at the very same place for centuries. You can go up to the top of the gate for some splendid views around the marketplace below, and the old town beyond. As trading activities cease around late evening, soft, hazy illumination lights up the gate, adding a visually alluring touch of magic to it.

Al-Bab Art Gallery

This is the small art gallery/museum that is situated, as the name suggests, right next to the Bab-al-Yemen. It allows passage from the street to the top of the Bab. Although you may just pass the gallery simply to get to the top of the gate to shoot a few photos, the gallery in itself isn’t such a disappointing sight either. It contains artistic work by up-and-coming artists, most of them young, energetic folk from around Sana'a, at quite affordable rates.

Gardens

For a city with a shortage of public water supply, the old city area is pretty rich in horticulture. Almost every house has an attached courtyard garden, and scattered about the streets are hedges blossoming with colors more varied than those on a Photoshop palette. Larger gardens are situated close to mosques, as water is easier to come by. Some gardens are situated below the street, to catch any water that is draining off. Rooftop gardens, more of a private retreat, are also visible from the ground – you can see overhanging vines, multicolored plant pots, and tamed birds prancing about.

Suq al-Milh

The best preserved relic of a thousand years of Islamic rule, this is the richest marketplace in all the Arabian Peninsula. It is a large, open-air market, covered in patches by plastic, fabrics, wooden planks, hides, and any other material that the locals could find, giving a literal manifestation to the symbolic merging of cultures and ethnicities within the city. Divided into sections according to the types of goods on sale, including eatables, wearables, disposables, and the like. The marketplace is very active all through the morning, but mellows down towards the late afternoon, when the hawkers resort to qat and tea sessions. This is the ideal moment to strike up ridiculous bargains – vendors, in their laidback mood, usually comply.

Hammam

Bathhouses that are remnants of Turkish Ottoman legacy. Old Sana'a contains more than a dozen hammams, of which the Hammam al Maidan is the most popular among locals. It is open till late hours of the night, and contains separate bathing facilities for men and women.

Henry de Monford French Cultural Center

Located on Hadda Street, off al-Quds Street in the Old Town, this place is managed by a Franco-Yemeni agency, and organizes concerts, themed plays, educational lectures, cultural exhibitions, and linguistic classes. Visit this gallery/museum/cultural retreat to witness an amazing blend of local and French art in a variety of media.

Attan Park

A large green space for the public, located close to the Expo Apollo on al-Jazair Road. Splendid landscape, rich variety of flowering shrubs, and shaded sitting areas positioned strategically to give magnificent views, this is the place you would want to retreat to after a long, tiring walk in the Old Town.

Al-Tahrir Square

The main public piazza of the city, this square acts as an intersection between two of Sana'a’s major urban districts. It is consequently lined with eateries and shopping outlets, features a mesmerizing fountain in the center, and is a popular hangout space for residents of the surrounding neighborhoods. In addition, the square also acts as the city’s cultural center – it contains 3 major museums of the country along its peripheries. Friday mornings are very active, as local men take leisure walks around the square, chatting away as time stands still, and vendors put up temporary stalls selling books and eatables. From here you can take a public bus to any part of Sana'a – after you have explored the cultural wealth surrounding the square!

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THE LOCAL TABLE

Halal restaurants in Sanaa

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Dar Fez Restaurant

Cuisine: Moroccan Address: Movenpick Hotel, Berlin Street, Dhahar Hemyer, Sana'a Timings: 6pm to 1145 pm A traditional Moroccan atmosphere awaits you at the Dar Fez Restaurant. This place is ideal for couples and business groups, due to its serene ambience and polite service. The food isn’t that bad either – you will get to experience some of the best authentic Moroccan cuisine outside of Morocco.

Zorba’s

Cuisine: American/Greek Address: Hadda Street Illy coffee in the morning, special milkshakes and lemon and mint juices in the afternoon, and a Greek menu all day long. Also available are pizzas, sandwiches, finger snacks, desserts, and soups. Outdoor seating in the evenings. Take-away and delivery options also available. Friendly staff, clean and well-maintained interior. Appropriate for couples.

Palace Restaurant

Cuisine: Chinese Address: Sheraton Hotel, Berlin Street, Sana'a Timings: 7pm to 11pm. Come for the soups and the spicy noodles! Spices added as per your taste. Pleasant interior, with richly colored oriental elements. Nice place for couples.

Broadway

Cuisine: International Address: Sheraton Hotel, Berlin Street, Sana'a Timings: Saturdays to Thursdays, 6pm to 1am A fascinating rooftop restaurant, open for dinner only. Take in the view of the city at night as you chew on your tasty American and Continental order.

Al-Fakher

Cuisine: Middle Eastern Address: Hadda Street Phone: +967 1 427888 / 427999 An expensive place, definitely not worth the price. You can get better varieties of the same food at any other Hadda Street diner, at much lower prices. This place has a pretty interior, however, so it may be good for a business meeting. Menu includes Egyptian and Lebanese dishes, and seafood. Some of the soups are also worth tasting.

Déjà vu

Cuisine: Coffee/Snacks Cuisine: Hadda Street Small café with a rather scrumptious selection of fast food, finger snacks, and meals on the go. Very well-maintained interior, and an outdoor court for the evening. Ideal for small business get-togethers. A full meal can get expensive, but light snacks and coffee for a small group are quite manageable.

Al-Manqal

Cuisine: Middle Eastern Address: Amman, Sana’a Good quality, even if not truly authentic, Egyptian and Lebanese food. Also available is a limited grilled menu, and soups and noodles. Outdoor seating available in the evenings. Reservations needed in advance. Good for business travelers.

KFC

Cuisine: Fast Food Address: Al- Sabeen Street Phone: +967 1 509876 Fax: + 967 1 508884 Part of the international fast food chain. A variety of burgers, fried chicken, nuggets, and beverages available. Well-maintained interior. Appropriate for families. Take-away and delivery options available.

Mumbai Darbar

Cuisine: Indian Address: Baghdad St City Centre, Sana'a This is the only Indian restaurant around the Baghdad Street area. Comparatively low prices, satisfactorily spicy authentic dishes, and a truly Indian ambience, comfy and friendly, from the charming sandalwood fragrances to the waiters’ traditional dresses. A welcoming patio and alluring interior. Polite staff, speaking English and Arabic. A favorite hangout for Indian and Pakistani tourists.

Al-Shaibani Restaurant Super Deluxe

Cuisine: Yemeni Address: Hadda Street, across from Al-Komaim Centre Phone: + 967 1 266375 There are a lot of “Shaibani” restaurants around the city. Shaibani is not a chain, but the name of a region. This particular restaurant, the Super Deluxe, gives you the best Shaibani food at quite an affordable price. It offers traditional Yemeni dishes, like leg of lamb, bread and date, saffron rice, a variety of seafood and grilled food. Pleasant interior, polite staff, quick service. Ask for the English menu for a few good laughs!

THE DAILY RHYTHM

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Where to stay in Sanaa

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Movenpick Hotel

Address: Berlin Street, Dhahar Hemyer, Sana'a Phone: +967 1 54 66 66 Fax: +967 1 54 60 00 Email: [email protected] Website: www.moevenpick-sanaa.com

Sheraton Hotel

Address: Berlin Street, Sana'a Phone: (967) (1) 237500 Fax: (967) (1) 251521 Email: [email protected]

Sheba Hotel

Address: Ali abdulmoghni Street, Sanaa, Yemen Phone: +967-1-272372 Fax: +967-1-274129 Email: [email protected] Website: shebahotel.com

Burj al Salam Hotel

Address: Al Fleehy Area, Sana'a Phone: +967 1 483333, +967 1 483340 Fax: +967 1 483330 Email: [email protected], [email protected]

Mercure Sana’a Al-Saeed

Address: Al Zubery Street Phone: (+967)1/212544 Fax: (+967)1/212487 Email: [email protected]

Shammr Hotel and Suites

Address: Hadda Street, Sana'a Phone: + 967 1 418545 /6/7/8 Fax: + 967 1 418549 Email: [email protected] Website: www.shammrhotel.com

Dawood Hotel

Address: Bustan al Habal, Old City, Sana'a Phone: +967 1 287270 Email: [email protected]

Arabia Felix Hotel

Address: old Sana'a area, near Wadi Road, downtown Sana'a Phone: + 967 1 287 330 Fax: + 967 1 287 426 Email: [email protected]

Taj Talha Hotel

Address: Harat Talha (Zone), Old Sana'a City Phone: + 967 – 1 - 287130 Fax: + 967 – 1 - 287212 Email: [email protected]

Sam City Hotel

Address: Al-Quiada St, Old Sana'a Phone: + 967 1 270752 Email: [email protected]

History and today in Sanaa

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Visa Information

If you have evidence of travel to Israel stamped on your passport, you cannot apply for, and will not be issued, a visa to visit Yemen.

When to go

Sana'a can be quite warm in the summer, and winters are generally cool and enjoyable. Summers are also quite dusty and dry, and your clothes can soon turn an annoying shade of beige as you traverse the city. Hot also means you will be more prone to exhaustion, and you might be tempted to try a locally prepared unhygienic drink just out of immense thirst, with grave consequences. In short - it is better to avoid Sana'a in the summer months. Unfortunately, it seems, the largest annual festival in Sana'a, one that is held especially to welcome tourists to the city, is held during the whole month of June. This offers perfect insight into the life and culture of the residents. If you love a city for its festivals, its people, and their sense of communal fun, then summer months would be the ideal choice for you to visit the city. Otherwise, it is better to visit the city any time during September-February. The hordes of tourists will be dying out, the city will be cleaner, cooler, and more accessible, and you can get to explore more of local life rather than bumping into a foreigner on every other corner.

Fast Facts

Location: Sana’a, Yemen Dialing code: +967 01 X (where +967 is the international code for Yemen, 01 is the regional code for Sana’a, and X is the local number) Emergency numbers - Fire Brigade 191 - Water Problems 171 - Telephone enquires 118 - Accident (traffic) 194 - Foreign Affairs 202544/7 - Inter-City Bus Co. 262111 - Red Crescent 203131

Exchange Rates

The currency used is the Yemeni Riyal (YER). Banknotes are present in denominations of 10, 20, 50,100, 500, 1000, and 5000 Rupees. Coins are also used for 1, 2, and 5 Rupees.

Public Holidays

Religious (subject to appearance of moon): Islamic New Year (1 Muharram) Eid al-Fitr (1 Shawwal) Eid al-Adha (10 Zilhaj)

Annual Temperature

January: low temperature: 6.9 °C high temperature: 19.8 °C precipitation: 0 mm

Sana'a Residents

Just like the architecture and the infrastructure have survived over the centuries in their somewhat original form, the society itself within Sana'a has witnessed a minimal change. People are as welcoming and hospitable to visitors as they used to be during the ages of caravan travel. You will be greeted with delight, and people try to help out with subtle gestures wherever you go. A basic knowledge of the Arabic language is a bonus, as it helps you to mingle with the locals in a variety of contexts.

Sanaa History

Sana'a is believed to be one of the oldest cities in the world, one that has continuously been inhabited over the centuries through times of drought, famine, war and major upheavals in social trends resulting from changes in its political and religious scenarios.

Sanaa Today

Useful information

Shopping

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Sana'a Trade Center

Address: Algeria Street Phone: +967 1 448369/7/70 Fax: +967 1 448471

Happyland

Address: Algeria Street, opposite Yemen Mall Phone: + 967 1 44 2000 Fax: + 967 1 44 79 09 Email: [email protected] Website: happyland-ye.com

Yemen Mall

Address: Da'iry Street (Ring Road), near the Hadda Street intersection Phone: +967 144 8364

Shumaila Hari Supermarket

Address: Hadda Street Shumaila Hari is a convenient departmental store that has everything from electronics to eatables, to very traditional handicrafts. It is modern and stylish, spread onto two floors, with shops categorized according to the products they sell. The topmost floor has a variety of boutiques and garment outlets, including children’s clothing, along with stores selling shoes and fashion accessories, bed sheets and blankets, and interior décor and home furniture. The first floor is a family-oriented shopping experience, where you can find clothes and other items of everyday domestic use. A special mention is a tailor’s shop that specializes in women’s apparel, hijab, abayahs and veils.

Al-Huda

Address: Zuberi Street Al-Huda is a relatively small but well-stocked supermarket, very popular amongst the locals, and almost always crowded. You can buy electronic household appliances, including refrigerators, ovens, stoves, hair dryers, and the like. Eatables like cheese, confectionery, cereals, nuts and canned/tinned food are also available here. Many of the goods in the eatables section are packaged under the Supermarket’s own brand name, which gives an assurance of quality.

Sam City Mall

Address: Bab al-Shariah A moderately priced shopping mall that specializes in women’s garments – scarves, shawls, pashminas (traditional muffler scarves, great as gifts to take back home), and a variety of abayahs and burqahs. Women can shop at ease here as the shopkeepers themselves are mostly women.

Al-Jundool Supermarket

Address: Hadda Street, up from Shumaila Hari This is the place to stack up on bakery supplies. Managed by the owners of the Jundool Bakery on Zuberi Street, the supermarket offers a charming variety of local breads, cheese and butter. Also present are a café and a kiosk selling local juices/shakes.

Komain Center

Address: Old Sana'a According to the locals, this place is the oldest actual “mall” that was erected in Sana'a. Very simple, with basic amenities, kind of like a large inexpensive supermarket. Popular among the locals because of its low prices. Offers a somewhat limited range of garments, but is quite well-stocked on groceries and bakery supplies.

Souq al-Milh

Address: Old City, Sana'a A large open-air flea market, the Souq is offers not only a genuinely Middle Eastern shopping extravaganza, but also a peek into what Yemeni culture is all about. Early morning haggling, groups of children running wild, women in burqahs exclaiming at pricey items, and smiling vendors offering cups of tea to every customer (do grab a cup or two, as you will hardly find any actual tea stalls in all the market).

Bab al-Sabah Street Market

Address: Bir al-Azab Disrtict, entrance of Old City, Sana'a Another open-air market, much smaller than the main Souq, but with almost the same atmosphere. Come here for really cheap meat and poultry products, green groceries, and spices. Bargaining can be ridiculously unbelievable, especially if you bring along a local friend. Do carry cash, preferably in YER, as most stalls do not accept foreign currency.

Signature sights in Sanaa

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National Museum of Yemen

Address: al-Tahrir Square Timings: Saturdays to Thursdays 9am to 12noon, 3pm to 5pm. Fridays 9am to 12pm only Entrance: YER 500

Military Museum of Yemen

Address: Gamal Abdul Nasser Street, western corner of al-Tahrir Square Phone: 276635 Timings: 3pm to 5pm

Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts

Address: north corner of al-Tahreer Square Timings: 8am to 5pm

Bab Sabah Street Market

Address: street market, from the Shari’ Ali’ Abdul Mughni to the entrance to Old Sana'a

Sanaa University

Address: city center, Sana'a If you are into history and culture but not really into museums, the University can offer you a more interesting alternative to walking clueless down long corridors of museum exhibits. A varied, more interactive approach to learning about the city, with a welcoming staff, a number of specialized libraries, and interesting exhibits housing mummies, handicrafts, and the like. All this and a charming campus with tea stalls at every corner.

Al-Sabeen Square

Address: al-Sabeen Street, off 60 Meters Street Named in remembrance of the two-month long siege during 1967-68, after which the Republican Armed Forces established a Republican Government in the country after overthrowing the Royal Forces and the monarchy. This large public square commemorates the battles fought during that siege. It holds a few monuments, including the popular Monument to the Unknown Soldier. The square features beautiful landscaping, and is accented with charming illumination at night. Modern day Sana'a sees the Square as the starting point of cultural parades and processions, and as a gathering place for large open-air events.

Festivals and events in Sanaa

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Mouloud

Date: 12 Rabi-ul-Awwal (Lunar Calendar) This event marks the birth of the Holy Prophet in the year 670 AD, and is generally a pleasant, cheerful day. Families get together at dinners, and mosques organize special gatherings and readings.

National Unity Day

Date: 22 May A very significant day in the lives of all Yemenites, commemorating the day North and South Yemen became united as one republic. The day is declared a public holiday, and there is a general air of enthusiasm amongst the locals as families visit public parks and squares where processions and other public exhibitions are held.

Sana'a Summer Festival

Date: all through June Quite a popular tourist summer fair, this event is all about the lifestyle in Sana'a. Held around the Bab al-Yemen in the Old City Area, the Summer Festival is a lively display of color, food, and folk dance. The main attractions are put up near the Bab al-Yemen, including craft and souvenir stalls, and kiosks selling local cuisine at discounts. Secondary events are held at public parks and squares, and even streets, around the city. These include art exhibitions, swings and rides for children, and displays of women’s handicrafts. Al-Sabeen Park holds a free workshop for children and youth where they can learn the basics of art from youthful, up-and-coming artists around Sana'a.

Ramadan

Date: month of Ramadan (Lunar Calendar) A month of fasting and religious observance for the Muslims, during which eateries around the city are open only after sunset. It is considered unpleasant to eat out in public during the daylight hours, as everyone around you would be fasting.

Eid-al-Fitr

Date: 1 Shawwal (Lunar Calendar) The primary religious festival for Muslims around the world, marking the end of the month of fasting. A day of thanksgiving, festivity, and spreading cheerfulness. A three-day public holiday, Eid is celebrated with much zeal, and you will get to eat a lot of sweet treats that are otherwise not so commonly sold out on the streets. Ideal time to photograph cultural/religious life!

Sanaa tours and experiences

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Universal Touring Company

Address: al-Tahrir Square, Sana'a Phone: +967 1 272861/ 2 / 3 Fax: +967 1 275134 Email: [email protected] Website: www.utcyemen.com The most reliable in terms of quality of service and level of security. A bit on the expensive side though, but this should not be a concern for western travelers.

Sinbad Tours

Postal Address: PO Box 19872, Sana'a Phone: +967 1 207231 Fax: +967 1 214736 Email: [email protected] Website: www.al-bab.com/sinbad

ATG/YATA

Phone: +967 1 441260 Fax: +967 1 441259 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.atg-yemen.com

Marib Travel and Tourism

Address: Sana’a Phone: +967 1 426833 Fax: +967 1 426836 E-mail: [email protected]

Cameleers Tours

Address: 12 Nouakchott Street, Sana'a Phone: + 967 1 464793 Fax: + 967 1 467544 Email: [email protected] Website: www.cameleerstours.com

Sanaa masjids and Muslim travel

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Al Rahman Mosque

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Mosque

Taiz St, Sana'a, Yemen

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Al Saleh Mosque

70, Sana'a, Yemen

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Saleh Mosque

Sana'a, Yemen

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Al Shohada Mosque

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AlTawheed Mosque

Transportation

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Buses

As Sana’a is a quite a big city containing many randomly sprawling districts, small minibuses or “dababs” are very convenient as a short, cheap hop from one neighborhood to another. A normal dabab fare ranges from YR 15 to YR 30, depending on how far you want to go. Dababs run from 6 in the morning to around 1 at night, making them the vehicle of choice for a range of low-income workers – be wise and avoid early morning and late night rides, especially when travelling alone. Although these buses are generally safe, a pickpocket might occasionally try his luck on an unsuspecting tourist. Dababs usually stick to the main roads within the city. They can be hailed by waving an arm at an approaching one. Be careful when getting on or off, as they seldom come to a complete halt.

Taxi

Taxis are the most popular form of transport within Sana’a. The complex network of roads and side streets in the crowded city can be quite daunting especially for foreigners so taxis are the easy way to go. They can be quite inexpensive when used for groups of three to four people.

Car for Hire

Hiring out a car is much more convenient than contracting a full day taxi if you have the bucks. You get your own driver, usually bilingual unlike most of the taxi drivers around town. You pay for the gas or the number of hours, depending on your package type, but it is a more satisfying experience overall.

From the airport

Sana’a houses one of Yemen’s eight airports.

Driving Tips

Sana’a is not one of the friendliest cities to be driving around in. The traffic is chaotic, rules are usually disregarded, and fellow drivers are often impatient and impolite.

Health and Safety

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Health & Safety

Health: Before the trip, get vaccinations against typhoid. You may also bring along a mosquito repellant and, to be on the safe side, a course of anti-malarial tablets if you plan to spend long, late evenings touring the city.

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