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Buenos Aires
Argentina

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is a hotbed of everything you can imagine in a city. Although it covers a vast area, most of the tourist destinations are concentrated within 5 inner barrios and these are therefore the most crowded. On weekdays, business people are everywhere, with their expensive leather cases and shoes, walking past beggars on the streets without a second glance. The city is trade hub, being a large political power in Latin America and the world.

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Top places to visit

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What to do with Children in Tow

Although it may not seem that way at first, Buenos Aires is an extremely safe and child friendly city. There are many child-friendly eateries and lots of parks to explore. Porteños adore children; you are bound to get into some interesting conversations with the locals that never would have happened if not for your little ones. Keeping the kids busy for hours will not be difficult in Buenos Aires. A few suggestions for what you can do when travelling with the family:

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The famous Recoleta Cemetery

The famous Recoleta Cemetery is well worth a visit as it is the resting place of many Argentinian celebrities. It is open daily from 8am-6pm and you may even be able to catch one of the guided tours. Telephone: 4804 7040 Website: www.cementeriorecoleta.com.ar

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Recoleta

It is the unofficial ‘centre’ of the city as it holds the Plaza de Mayo, the main square in Buenos Aires. This barrio also has some beautiful French style buildings and is one of the most expensive areas to live. The square is surrounded by the key commercial and shopping areas in Buenos Aires and contains a beautiful park with fountains and statues. The Casa Rosada, the Presidential palace is on one side of it, where many a revolution has begun. There is an attached museum that offers free guided tours and an interesting journey through Buenos Aires’ political history Telephone: 4344 3844 Website: http://www.museo.gov.ar/default.asp Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday 10am-6pm, Sundays 2pm-6pm

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The Cabildo

The Cabildo, situated opposite the Casa Rosada is the only surviving government building from colonial times so is worth the exploration, especially if you have an interest in architecture.

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The Reserva Ecológica Costanera

The Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur nearby, is a picturesque garden, and an excellent alternative, particularly for nature lovers.

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Puerto Madero

Similar in feel to the London docklands, Puerto Madero has a ghostly beauty to it. The antique port of Buenos Aires has been renewed however and now represents the latest architectural and entertainment trends of the city. The old red-brick warehouses now contain galleries, bars and restaurants (ranging from high end eateries to Franchises such as Hooters and TGIF). Old docking cranes and ships sit silently on either side of the dock, and the beautiful bridge 'Puente de la Mujer' (Bridge of the Woman) stands tall across the water. The newly opened Puerto Madero tramway now services the area and there are many high risers being built in the surrounds, which is a testament to the refurbishments happening.

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The San Telmo district

The San Telmo district is a must-visit as it preserves the old Spanish style architecture and streets. The roads tend to be paved with cobblestones, lending a quaint and romantic feel to the area. You seem to be within a little slice of historic Europe. It is however, a very touristy area and don’t be surprised of you are offered ‘authentic’ Argentinian items for sale at sky high prices. There are markets held on the Plaza Dorrego every Sunday, be sure to catch them if you’re in the area, they have a great community feel.

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The Buenos Aires Museum of Modern Art

The Buenos Aires Museum of Modern Art is worth a visit while you are here. It boasts a large collection of art and is situated on the main street of San Telmo: 350 San Juan Avenue. Entry is free.

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Planetario de Galileo Galilei

Planetario de Galileo Galilei is a beautiful building that could give you an exciting evening’s outing. There are plays and educational shows that take place there as well as the opportunity to gaze into the inky blackness above through an obscenely large telescope. Shows are normally around ARS10, general admittance is free. The Planetarium is open between 10:00am and 4:00pm Weekdays.

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THE LOCAL TABLE

Halal restaurants in Buenos Aires

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La Bourgogne

This classy restaurant is part of the Alvear Palace hotel and is one of the best in Buenos Aires. A French chef presides over the kitchen with skill and aplomb and there is a wide selection of dishes on offer. You can also try the excellent grilled meat on the rotisserie.

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Primafila

This is a nice place to take your partner for some good food and classy enjoyment. The thin crust pizzas are famously excellent since they are baked in a brick-oven. They also serve many other dishes including seafood, salads and pasta. Cuisine: Italian Address: Av. Puyerredon 2501 Telephone: 4804 0055

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Cabaña Las Lilas

An extremely upscale but proportionately (if surprisingly) comfortable place to eat. The specialty here is the steak and it’s not without reason that it is reputedly the ‘best place in Buenos Aires to eat steak’. The steaks are enormous, succulent, and must be tasted to be believed. They also have an extensive list of Argentine and international wines.

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Bar 6

A complete restaurant offering the highest quality meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In the late hours, it is also a cocktail bar. The atmosphere is comfortable and the wait staff is quiet and efficient; this is the place to while away a whole day.

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El Farol

Go here to get the flavor of what a typical porteño likes to eat. There are large portions, lots of meat and some Spanish and Italian influences thrown in. The taste and quality of the food in El Farol is always superb and the staff tends to be jovial and talkative.

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Artemisia

If you are getting tired of all the meat on offer, don’t fret as there are some carefully hidden vegetarian places in Buenos Aires too! In the Palermo Viejo district, this little haven of home-cooked food is relief to find. Simple dishes, organic ingredients and polite and attentive waitstaff make this restaurant always a pleasure to eat at.

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Bo Bo

This is part of the Bo Bo hotel and a warm, inviting place to go for a relaxed dinner or lunch. Some Argentinian dishes are on offer, as well as some middle-eastern delights. Food is well prepared and delicious.

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La Pharmacie

Renovated from an old pharmacy, this restaurant is just the right combination of perfect atmosphere and perfect food. They prepare an excellent pizza but the vibe is such that you feel able to drop in anytime for a coffee or a glass of wine. They also have salad and pasta dishes available and outdoor seating. Cuisine: Pizzaria Address: Charcas 3494 (@ Vidt) Telephone: 4823 0861

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La Vieja Rotisería

La Vieja Rotisería is the best place for cheap authentic Argentinian meat. The parilla café is very popular so be prepared to wade between the ranks of hungry porteños at lunchtime. Cuisine: Argentinian Address: Defensa 963, San Telmo Telephone: 4362 5660

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Al paso Restaurants

When you are exploring the city, you’ll realize there are many al paso (walk through) restaurants where your meal is meant to be eaten quick, standing up or at a bar. This is good if you are travelling on your own and are more interested in Buenos Aires experiences other than food. There are a few meal options: hot-dogs (panchos), are quick and familiar, beef sausages (chorizos, or its sandwich version choripán), delicious but take a little getting used to, the humble pizzas, or milanesas (breaded fried cutlets) for the adventurous.

THE DAILY RHYTHM

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Where to stay in Buenos Aires

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Hotel Bel Air

Hotel Bel Air, Arenales 1462 Telephone: 4021 4000 Fax: 54 11 4021-4070 Website: http://www.hotelbelair.com.ar/

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Hotel de Diseño

Hotel de Diseño, Marcelo T. de Alvear 1695, Tel: 5237 3100 Fax: 5237 3137 Website: http://www.designce.com.

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Alvear Palace Hotel

Alvear Palace Hotel, Avenida Alvear 1891, 1129 Ciudad De Buenos Aires Telephone: 4808 2100 Website: www.alvearpalace.com

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Hotel Ñiken

Location: C/ 87 No 335 (entre 6 y 8), Necochea, Buenos Aires, Telephone: 2262 43 23 23 Fax: 2262 43 29 29 Website: http://www.hotelniken.com.ar/

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The Cocker

Location: Av Juan de Garay 458, San Telmo, Buenos Aires Telephone: 43628451 Website: http://www.thecocker.com

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Atlas Tower Hotel

Location: Av. Corrientes 1778, Buenos Aires. Telephone/Fax: 5217 9371

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Hotel Goya

Hotel Goya, Suipacha 748, Capital Federal Telephone: 4322 9269 Fax 4322 9311 Website: http://www.goyahotel.com.ar/

History and today in Buenos Aires

When to go

When to go

As Argentina is in the southern hemisphere, the seasons are the opposite times to when is common in the Middle East. Buenos Aires is a pleasant city all year round but the peak times for travel tend to be spring (September-November) and winter (June-August). The snow sports, such as skiing and snowboarding are popular attractions in the winter, so expect flight tickets to double during those times. Buenos Aires can be hot and humid in the summer, so if you are looking for good times with relative quiet, go in the autumn (March-May). Festivals and sporting tournaments tend to be in these pleasant times during spring and autumn.

Fast Facts

Fast Facts

-Location: Buenos Aires (literally ‘fair winds’) is located on the southeastern coast of the South American continent. It is the capital and largest city of Argentina, which is the second largest country in South America and the eighth largest in the world. Argentina (from the Latin word for silver, ‘argentum’) shares land borders with Paraguay, Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia and Chile, and is surrounded on the east and south by the Atlantic Ocean. Buenos Aires city is located inside the province of Buenos Aires, but is an autonomous federal district. It consists of 48 barrios or neighbourhoods. It is situated in what is called the Rio de la Plata (River of silver), where the Uruguay and Parana rivers combine and join the Atlantic Ocean. The large historic port gives the people of Buenos Aires their name: porteños -Dialing code: country +54 city: 11, then an eight digit subscriber number. To call other districts from Buenos Aires, dial 0, the district code, then the 8-digit number. Cell phones are more expensive to call than landlines and normally begin with a 15, followed by the 8-digit number. Calling a cell phone in another area (i.e. not Buenos Aires) would require you to dial that district code, then 15, then the 8-digit number

Public Holidays

Public Holidays

The weekend in Buenos Aires is Saturday-Sunday. Public Holidays are: January 1 (New Year's Day) Good Friday May 1 (Labor Day) May 25 (First Argentine Government) June 10 (National Sovereignty Day) June 20 (Flag Day) July 9 (Independence Day) August 17 (Anniversary of the Death of General San Martín) October 12 (Día de la Raza) December 8 (Immaculate Conception Day), and December 25 (Christmas). Most tourist businesses and restaurants, however, will remain open during all but Christmas Eve, Christmas day and New Year's. Christmas Eve (24th December) tends to be a bigger celebration than Christmas day and family gatherings generally happen that night.

Buenos Aires Residents

Buenos Aires Residents

If you are travelling to other parts of Argentina, you’ll quickly find out that Buenos Aires is almost in a separate realm to the rest of the country. Argentines tend to resent or talk down about the porteños, because they are seen to be ‘upper-class’. In truth, Buenos Aires has received far more European immigrants than any of the other cities and the culture is proportionately different.

Annual Temperature

Annual Temperature

Month High (°C) Low(°C) January 30.4 20.4 February 28.7 19.4 March 26.4 16.6 April 22.3 12.7 May 18.7 9.5 June 15.1 7.2 July 13.8 6.7 August 14.3 7.8 September 17.9 9.9 October 22.5 13.1 November 28.8 19.2 December 22.4 13.5

Buenos Aires Today

Buenos Aires Today

Buenos Aires is a hotbed of everything you can imagine in a city. Although it covers a vast area, most of the tourist destinations are concentrated within 5 inner barrios and these are therefore the most crowded. On weekdays, business people are everywhere, with their expensive leather cases and shoes, walking past beggars on the streets without a second glance. The city is trade hub, being a large political power in Latin America and the world.

Buenos Aires History

Buenos Aires History

Buenos Aires was not the first city to be established in Argentina, it was not used by the indigenous hunter-gatherer peoples as a settlement either. In 1535 however, Pedro Medoza a, Spanish aristocrat set up a port in the natural harbor created by the river delta. The Spanish then steadily colonized the area and Buenos Aires grew as a farming and trading community. However, Salta, Tucumán, Córdoba, and other Argentinian settlements were of more importance until the late 1700s.

Useful information

Shopping

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Buenos Aires Design

This is a high class shopping mall entirely dedicated to interior design. A good place to find European quality furniture, antiques and house wares, it is centrally located in Recoleta. Address: Avenida Pueyrredon 2501 Telephone: 5777 6000 Website: http://www.designrecoleta.com.ar/

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Gloria Lópes Sauqué

This beautiful leather design gallery is the showroom for the items by famous Argentinian designer Gloria Lópes Sauqué. Her creations are sold in Paris and exhibited in various other countries. The store is open Monday through Friday from 10:00am to 8:00pm and Saturday from 10:00am to 6:00pm and is located in the Libertad barrio. Address: Posadas 1169 Telephone: 4815 3007 Website: www.glorialopezsauque.com

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Falabella

This chain department store has the best in anything you want. Cosmetics, clothes, house wares, it’s all here. Address: Calle Florida 202 Phone: 5950 5000 Website: www.falabella.com

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The Microcentro

In the Microcentro, the Avenue Santa Fe is the site of hundreds of shops which mainly sell gifts and clothes, but many other stores can be found there. There are also cafes and restaurants for a break.

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Paseo Alcorta shopping center

Paseo Alcorta shopping center in Palermo is small but makes up for its size with sophistication. It has fashionable clothing stores for men and women along with great cafes, a Carrefour supermarket, and a movie theater. Address: Corner of Av. Figueroa Alcorta and J. Salguero Telephone: 5777 6500 Website: http://www.paseoalcorta.com.ar/shopping/

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Alto Palermo Shopping Mall

the biggest shopping centre in the city, also located in Palermo. It has a daring architectural design which is recognized by the International Council of Shopping Centers. Its mirror-like external walls reflect the buildings in Coronel Diaz Street and Santa Fe Avenue. It plays host to hundreds of cafes and shops, and is one of the most popular malls in the city. Address: Arenales 3360 Telephone: 5777 8000 Website: http://www.altopalermo.com.ar/

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Bakú

This unique fashion boutique is located in the Las Cañitas neighborhood of Palermo, an expensive and high class area but the items in this shop are reasonably priced. Unique leather goods and jewelry can be found here. The shop is open Monday from 1:00pm to 10:00pm and Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00am to 10:00pm. Address: Av. Arguibel 2890 Telephone: 4775 5570

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Walrus Books

Owned by an American book enthusiast, this charming used book store is an interesting place to spend a few hours if you’re waiting for something, or just want a book to read on the train. There are many English language books and if you look carefully you might find a rare treasure. It is open Tuesday to Sunday 10:00am to 8:00pm Address: Estados Unidos 617 Telephone: 4300 7135 Website: http://www.walrus-books.com.ar/

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Voyager

This shop sells luggage, bags and suitcases of all types so it is a good place to go if you’ve bought too many things on your Buenos Aires shopping spree. The shop is charmingly decorated and is open Monday through Saturday from 10:00am to 8:00pm, Sunday from 10:00am to 7:00pm. Address: Florida 250 Telephone: 5032 2578

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Cabildo Patio Feria

Cabildo Patio Feria is a lovely festival to go to while sightseeing in the Plaza de Mayo area. It is held on Thursday and Friday from 11:00am to 6:00pm in the small garden patio behind the Cabildo, or old city hall. You'll find lots of locally made crafts here, especially pottery, stained glass, and jewelry. It’s also a nice place to relax and people-watch.

Signature sights in Buenos Aires

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The Buenos Aires Zoo

The Buenos Aires Zoo is also located in Palermo and is a good place to visit. Entry is ARS22 and it is open 10:00am to 6:00pm daily.

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The Plaza Italia

The Plaza Italia is the focal point of the suburb, surrounded by the zoo and the botanic gardens, and holding the monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi As it is the largest barrio in Buenos Aires, there are several sub sections such as Palermo-Viejo, Palermo-Chico, Palermo-SoHo and Palermo-Hollywood.

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Microcentro

Microcentro is the name used for the central Barrio, downtown, an ideal location for visitors to be near to the main historical spots of the Argentinean capital. The widest street in the world, the monstrous 16-lane Avenida 9 de Julio is part of this neighbourhood. This is also the central financial district so during work hours on weekdays, the place is fairly chaotic. The Obelisco, the main monument in central Buenos Aires is a good vantage point for calmly surveying the melee.

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Calles Florida

is a must-visit. It is located downtown and is one of the famous pedestrian streets in the city. There are many shops to suit all budgets and this is a good place to practice your Spanish as people are used to tourists. The downside of this though, is that there are plenty of porteños trying to scam you, so be on the lookout for prices that seem exorbitant and “authentic” Argentinian produce. Calles Lavalle is the slightly cheaper counterpart where you can find ARS5 meals of massive steaks and smoky milonga Tango places.

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The Retiro barrio

The Retiro barrio nearby hosts the main train station in the city. As you would expect, the place is packed with commuters and travelers any time you go there. There is also a great lifestyle scene here, with high class restaurants, boutique shopping, and clubs. It is home to a wide variety of immigrants. The whole area and its business is quite dizzying, especially for a first time visitor or if you have never lived in a big city so remember to take breaks and give yourself regular sit-downs. Thankfully, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants that are little drops of calm in the bustle of the town.

Festivals and events in Buenos Aires

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Fiesta de las Murgas

With its own unique flavor, the Mardi Gras festival is different in Buenos Aires than in anywhere else. The carnival runs for a whole month, with dancing, music and street stalls every weekend. Not to be missed, this festival shows the city with its hair down.

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Buenos Aires Fashion Week

Normally held in the last week of February, and again in August for the summer collections, Fashion Week showcases the newest fashions from the style-capitals of the world. The event runs for three days at the Buenos Aires Fairgrounds, with a nominal entry fee payable for the whole show. The website has all the information in Spanish.

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Feria del Libro

one of the largest book festivals in the world, this is the place to go for hearing authors from all over the world and finding old treasures. It is normally held between April and May for about 2 weeks. There is also an attached children’s book fair.

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Festival Internacional de Cine Independiente (BAFICI)

The independent film festival in Buenos Aires is held every April and showcases local and international talent. It is an excellent place to find out about up and coming directors, producers and films, as well as being the perfect weather! It is definitely the most prestigious independent film event in Latin America, with over 184 thousand visitors every year. The website, conveniently in English has more information:

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Arte Buenos Aires

A contemporary art fair, Arte BA is celebrated in the La Rural Exhibition Centre between the 11th and 18th of May, with the participation of national and international art galleries, institutions and organizations. It is a fairly large collection of Art on display and there is sure to be something for everyone’s taste. There are also discussion sessions throughout the duration of the festival.

Buenos Aires tours and experiences

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Say Hueque Tourism

This small company gives great personalized tours as they started with working with budget holidays. They will really help you get the most out of your money. They are also famous for their themed tours of the areas in Buenos Aires such as Biking Buenos Aires, Tango Buenos Aires and Literary Buenos Aires. If you wish to explore outside the city, they will gladly organise tours to the Tigre delta, Patagonia or Igazú and they are very good at finding the roads less travelled.

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Dine At Home-Home Hosted Dinners Tours

this quaint company offers dinners in the residences of porteños. Dietary requirements for vegetarians, Muslims (halal food), diabetics, lactose intolerant and others are accommodated for. It is an interesting experiment to try and definitely a good way to get a real feel of Buenos Aires. The same company also runs sightseeing tours in other parts of Argentina. Ask for Edward Goedhart.

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The Buenos Aires tourist office

Telephone: 0800 999 2838 Website: www.bue.gov.ar organizes free walking and bus tours of the city with volunteer guides. If you have a day or two to kill and want to learn some history of the city, contact the office.

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Travel Line Argentina

Organizes excellent bus tours of the city and are reasonably priced. They have a wide variety of services, including airport transfers, bus trips overland into Uruguay and Atlantic coastline tours.

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Francisco Martoccia

A good personal tour guide is Francisco Martoccia who organizes tours led by himself or with a small group. He is very knowledgeable about the city and if you want a ‘home-cooked’ sort of approach to your holiday and you prefer dealing with real people rather than agents, go and see Francisco.

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Les Amis

Les Amis is a large Argentinian tour company with offices in many locations. They have a variety of packaged tours and trips you can take, including going to other parts of South America and touring there. If you want a trusted name in travel and tourism go to these people.

Buenos Aires masjids and Muslim travel

Transportation

Buses

Buses

Buenos Aires has an almost hopelessly vast, complex and extensive bus network. A few weeks of using it will probably give you a good idea of the basic framework but most tourists do not have that long, so they have to rely on outside help. Buses that run in the city are called collectivos and long-distance regional buses are called a micros. The Terminal de Omnibus de Retiro is the centre of the whole medley and you can find a bus that goes anywhere in Argentina from there. There are more than 75 platforms and multiple bus companies service each route/destination. There is general information in Spanish on the bus terminal website: http://www.tebasa.com.ar/paginas/buscador.html Bus information line: 4310 0700

Metro

Metro

Tren subterráneo (underground train), or Subte as it is called for short by the Porteños, is the metro system in Buenos Aires. It is quick and frequent and not too complicated to understand. At rush hour however, it is likely that you will miss a couple of trains simply because there are too many people in it. There are 6 lines with letter labels (i.e. ‘A’, ‘B’ etc) and information about the train times can be obtained by calling a toll free number: 0800-555-1616 or at the website: http://transmetro.mobi/bai/ which is conveniently in English.

Taxi

Taxi

Taxis are easy to find as there are so many of them on the streets with their tell tale yellow and black exterior. The upper right corner of the windscreen should have a red light on if the taxi is free and make sure they are metered before getting in. The city is divided into equal squares with block numbers so telling a taxi driver a street name and block number, eg. "Buesares 2100", or the junction of two streets, eg. "Corrientes y Florida" is generally enough information.

Car for hire

Car for hire

The traffic in Buenos Aires is fairly stressful so driving by yourself is not recommended. Walking or public transport is generally better for your blood pressure and fitness. If you know the area and want some adventure however, there are several car rental places that are easy to access.

Train

Train

The above ground railway system, although just as efficient as the subway, takes a bit more getting used to because each line is owned by different companies and this dictates the safety and cleanliness of the ride. The train network is laid out in the shape of a star. Almost all the suburbs are accessible through the train system and more information can be found in city maps/guides in roadside shops and on the transport company websites:

Driving Tips

Driving Tips

The road rules in Buenos Aires and most of Argentina in fact, are treated more like suggestions by the locals so the most important part of driving would be to be defensive. Stay away from crowded areas and work out beforehand the route you are going to take. Also remember that Argentina has one of the highest motor vehicle accident mortality rates in the world, and you don’t want to turn your holiday into a hospital stay.

From the airport

From the airport

There are two airports in Buenos Aires, Ezeiza International (called Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini) and the domestic Jorge Newbery Airport (called Aeroparque). They are fairly close to the city, about a half hour drive by highways.

Health and Safety

Health and Safety

Health and Safety

The important thing to remember is that as a tourist, you are fairly conspicuous, especially if you don’t speak Spanish. Practice defensive driving, talking and walking so that no one takes offense at you and you are safe. Watch out for pickpockets, keep your belongings close to you at all times and do not travel alone at night. Report any loss to the police, who have a dedicated number to report tourism company fraud: 0800 999 5000 as well as their emergency number 100 Land and air pollution tend to be a problem in the central districts of Buenos Aires. Anticipate this and bring along inhalers or any medication you may need. There is also often rubbish, cockroaches and pet litter on the streets so watch where you’re walking or putting down your bags. There isn’t too much that could make you sick in Buenos Aires. Watch your eating habits; eating lots of meat or sweet things when your stomach is not used to it will cause a reaction. Water and ice are good to drink in the city and no vaccinations are required to enter the country. Some useful hospital numbers: Clínica Suisso Argentino Telephone: 4304 1081 The Hospital Británico Address: Perdriel 74 Telephone: 4309 6600 Website: http://www.hospitalbritanico.org.ar/web/en Consider medical travel insurance if you think you are likely to get sick. Some things to remember when dealing with porteños or any Argentines: Kissing cheeks is the most common form of greeting between friends. Dinner is usually eaten late, from around 9:00pm and as mentioned before, time is relative. Formal attire is not usually required, except for official functions and dinners, particularly in exclusive restaurants. Clothes however, should be conservative away from the beach. Smoking is prohibited on public transport, in cinemas and theaters. Keep away from any discussion of the Falklands/Malvinas war as it can seem insensitive.

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