Since the Velvet Revolution in 1989, Prague has opened its doors to international visitors and garnered the reputation of a crowded, touristy, party filled place. The city has devoted itself to cleaning up its act but some would argue that you don’t always get what you pay for. Taxis still over charge, pick pockets still operate and if you go out at night you could bump into a rambunctious stag party. Indeed the capital of sleaze, as the city has been called on occasion, does still hold onto its saucy vices. But Prague does try hard to make everyone happy: high class restaurants sit next to greasy take-outs while designer brands rub shoulders
With its fascinating architecture, Prague can be thought of as an ancient place for children to be enthralled by and enjoy. Along with Prague Castle, there is its fascinating Toy Museum and Miniatures Museum (they are not allowed to touch the displays though). There are numerous toy shops dotted around the city which, when travelling by tram can be entertaining for children, along with the puppet theatres.
Pay homage to Prague’s most famous resident in this weird museum. Original documents and photos are exhibited in claustrophobic, strobe-lit sections and marvel at the writer’s complex relationship with Prague which is broached within a trippy short movie.
Rebels against communist Czechoslovakia praised Western rock musicians such as John Lennon and when he died in 1980 this wall was painted in his honor; repainted again and again every time the secret police white-washed it. Today it stands proudly though a bit graffiti splattered.
A prominent sculpture that has male figures at various stages of aridness descending a staircase; a line runs down the centre counts the victims of torture, exile and death which is quite sobering.
The most popular walkway across the Vltava River that connects Mala Strana and Stare Mesto, the Charles Bridge is over 650 years old. However, a 100 million Kč renovation that began in 2007 and was due to end by 2008 stretched into 2009 so it may still be a bit crowded with sections being roped off to the public. If you rub the bronze plaque beneath the statue of St John, you will return to Prague.
If you must see one part of Prague Castle then make it St Vitus Cathedral. Its construction began in 1344 and despite it is very Gothic in appearance it was only completed in 1929. Passing through the Golden Gate doorway adorned with its 14th century Mosaic of the Last Judgement, you’ll be given a brochure of highlights to visit. One of these is the view of Prague from the 96m tall Great Tower and the silver tomb of St John of Nepomuk. The ornate Chapel of St Wenceslas however has a special significance. On the southern side of the chapel there is a little door with seven locks, each key needed to unlock this door is in the safekeeping of a separate official. What lies behind the door? The Czech crown jewels which are rarely shown to the public; the oldest of which is a 22-carat gold St Wenceslas Crown made for Charles IV in 1347. The crown does come with a curse however: any usurper who wears it is doomed to die within the year. Admission prices: the nave and chapels are free but a ticket is required for the rest.
You cannot visit Prague without visiting its most famous landmark. Founded in the 9th century by Prince Bořivoj of the Premysl dynasty, the castle grew arbitrarily as subsequent rulers made new additions. All Czech rulers have had their residences at the castle except for the country’s first post-communist president who preferred the comforts of his own home. The castle now stands at almost seven football fields long, proceeding east to west through three courtyards. The information, while detailed, gives a basic overview of the opening hours and admission prices; see the castle website for a more information.
While you can walk up this lookout from different routes the best way is to take the funicular railway from Ujezd. Services leave every 15 to 20 minutes and ordinary public transport tickets are valid. Some of the best views of Prague are from this lookout, which has 299 steps and was built in 1891 for the Prague Exposition. Here you’ll find a nearby mirror maze and other attractions from the late 19th to early 20th century. There is also an Observatory but opening times vary according to the season; check the website www.observatory.cz for details.
Old Town Hall Times: the chiming times are every hour on the hour from 9am to 9pm
Full of Czech symbolism, this building is Art Nouveau homage to nationalism. There is a mosaic called Homage to Prague above the entrance which represents the oppression and resurrection of the Czech people. There is a cafe; concerts are held in Smetana Hall and tours.
This restaurant mixes French and Asian cuisine with noodle dishes and meals with fish, duck and other meats; the dessert menu has a variety of French and Belgian treats. However the food is not cheap but there are business lunch specials on offer during the week and on Fridays there is live music.
A very exclusive restaurant where the address and contact details are vague, you must make reservations 24hr via email, see for details, giving your name, your contact details, the evening you wish to book, the number of people you are bringing and any food preferences. The food however makes this all worth it; French cuisine served as you dine alongside monthly art exhibitions.
For something completely different this restaurant has one defining feature other than its food: the setting is in an underground cave! Established in 1679 in New Town, this restaurant serves a board variety of game dishes with fish, beef and lamb; there is also a small selection of soups and fondue, salads and cheeses.
A modern cafe that likes to play the latest techno music, Cafe No. 1 has 12 different types of hot chocolate along with coffees, milkshakes and juices. The food selection offers breakfast with eggs, pasta, risotto, salads and pitas. The evening sees cocktail and beer menus take centre stage as the pre-party crowd gathers.
Found in a little courtyard passage off Narodni, this place offers a variety of Italian cuisine including pizzas, pastas and meat dishes in various sauces. There is an impressive wine menu and also a menu of ‘top-class’ drinks.
Don’t let the ‘club’ part of the name fool you; this place serves quality Czech food along in its cozy cellar inspired setting. Despite its Old Town location the prices are cheaper than most places. In the summer months it is wise to book ahead, though in general it is not mandatory.
A restaurant with a literary bent, this used to be the favorite eatery of author Milan Kundera as well as a hang-out of the all the intellectuals and their fans. Opening in 1881, the food menu reads like standard Czech cuisine, offering fish and chicken dishes along with soups and cheese platters.
Boulevard Bageterie is sandwich shop that feels like a fast food outlet but offers food that is fresh, edible and good for you. It gives you a choice of ordering off the menu or making your own sandwich and the ingredients are of good quality, prices are reasonable and there is space for patrons to sit.
Daham Restaurant is a fast food restaurant specializing in gyros, pizza, falafels and other sorts of snack food. Located next to the Roxy club, it is open until 1am.
Address: Karlova
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A peaceful place with first class service and modern rooms, the Savoy has hosted famous people such as Tina Turner and Sean Connery. Facilities include a bar, concierge, gym, spa, Internet (cable, 290 Kc/hr), restaurant, room service, disabled/adapted rooms and parking (€25).
There are only eight rooms in this establishment but they are of a high-standard and only a four minute walk to Prague Castle. Keep in mind that this hotel does not accept credit cards. Polished wood floors, high ceilings and a homely decor round out this hotel’s charms with facilities on offer are cozy dining rooms, free WiFi and satellite TVs.
A classy 17th century villa, rooms come with fully equipped kitchens and bathrooms. Two of the rooms have fireplaces and one opens onto a rooftop terrace. Facilities include bar, free wireless Internet, parking (650 Kc), restaurant, room service and TV/DVD. A continental breakfast is served for an extra €15 and if you bring pets they are an extra €20 – children under 11 are free.
The former residence of a count, this residence generates a lot of talk amongst the Prague elite. It boasts a classy bar and palatal public areas with 50 modernized rooms. This hotel also has a gym, free Internet and cable TV, a restaurant and in house babysitting for children.
Located a short ride outside of the city centre, this hotel is only 20 minutes from the airport by car. Popular with families for its sporadic specials and large rooms to congregate in, this hotel boasts bar, business services, gum, disabled access, cable Internet, three restaurants and room service.
The same excellent service here as with any other Marriott hotel, this one is ideally located in the city with good deals for families and a gym on-site. Other facilities include handicapped access, free Internet, pool, restaurant, bar and room service.
Named after the canal on which it sits, this hotel is near the Charles Bridge with views of that and Prague Castle. The staff is attentive and the rooms are modern with disabled access, free wireless Internet and off-site parking 600 Kc.
A Scandinavian owned hotel that boasts beautiful views of the Charles Bridge, it has 13 suites with a reconstructed Renaissance decor with modern business services. There are Jacuzzis in the bathrooms, free cable/wireless Internet, room service and parking. The concierge is extremely efficient, arranging anything its customers need.
Dating back to 1372, this hotel has vaulted ceilings and a spiral staircase but has elevators and modern bathrooms. Rooms with numbers ending with 5 are spacious with huge bathrooms. Discounts on longer stays can be negotiated through the hotel’s website but shorter stays do have good prices. There is a tour desk on site along with Internet (cable, free), a restaurant and off-site parking at 550 Kc.
A boutique hotel well known in Old Town, the Josef has a bar, concierge, gym, free wireless Internet, parking and room service. Children under six are free.
• New Year’s Day: January 1st • Easter Monday: March/April • Labour Day: May 1st • Liberation Day: May 8th • SS Cyril & Methodius Day: July 5th • Jan Hus Day: July 6th • Czech Statehood Day: September 28th • Republic Day: October 28th • Struggle for Freedom and Democracy Day: November 17th • Christmas Eve: December 24th • Christmas Day: December 25th • St Stephen’s Day: December 26th While banks, offices, department stores and some shops will be closed on public holidays, restaurants, museums and tourist attractions are inclined to be open.
Month Average High (C°) Average Low (C°) January 1°C -4°C February 2°C -4°C March 8°C 0°C April 12°C 2°C May 18°C 7°C June 21°C 11°C July 22°C 12°C August 23°C 12°C September 18°C 9°C October 12°C 4°C November 5°C 0°C December 2°C -2°C
While Prague has reportedly the best standard of living in Central and Eastern Europe, this standard is out of reach for many of its working class. There is a growing middle class who is beginning to experience all the pleasures of fine dining and clubs but this group is relatively small. Visitors can find Prazaks a tad rough and standoffish but don’t take this personally. Czechs are quite impassive if you don’t know them but look harder at the culture and you’ll find there is a hint of playful humor running through it.
Population:: 1.19 million; Language:: Czech; Time Zone:: GMT/UTC + 1
The Czech Republic distinguishes between two visas: the Schengen (short term) visas and the long term visas. The Schengen visa allows stays for up to 90 days. For this application you will need a completed application form, a valid passport and photograph and documents outlining your purpose for visiting: invitation, travel agency documents, travel itineraries etc. You must also provide proof of financial means to sustain yourself while visiting and valid accommodation and return to your country of residence.
The hot, crowded European summers are not ideal. Though the city experiences an influx of visitors during these months, many locals head to the countryside during this time. With more agreeable weather, fewer tourists and a variety of festivals, the spring and autumn seasons show Prague at its best. Ancient carnivals and an electronic music festival in February offer something for winter. January is on average the coldest month with June being the wettest month.
Since the Velvet Revolution in 1989, Prague has opened its doors to international visitors and garnered the reputation of a crowded, touristy, party filled place. The city has devoted itself to cleaning up its act but some would argue that you don’t always get what you pay for. Taxis still over charge, pick pockets still operate and if you go out at night you could bump into a rambunctious stag party. Indeed the capital of sleaze, as the city has been called on occasion, does still hold onto its saucy vices. But Prague does try hard to make everyone happy: high class restaurants sit next to greasy take-outs while designer brands rub shoulders with tacky souvenir shops. A more direct threat to this emerging cosmopolitan city has been the whole takeaway coffee concept which is almost a mockery of the Czech’s grand cafe culture of coffee served on silver trays.
Like any major city, Prague’s origins are based on legends. According to the myth, the site of Prague was founded by Libuse, a daughter of an ancient Czech ruler, and the man she chose to be her husband, Premysl. Their decedents would later build Prague Castle. The city became the center of nobility and developed a flourishing slave trade as European merchants settled here. In 1257, Malá Strana was established by King Otakar II as the primary district of the German people, defended by fortifications.
Located right in the city center, this shopping mall opened in 2007 is the largest in the Czech Republic and certainly one of the most luxurious. You won’t find a cheap place to eat here despite over 30 restaurants and cafes, but there are over 200 high retail shops here. If you find yourself bored with the prospect of visiting this mall, Palladium has some historical value with archaeological survey conducted on the building found stone foundations dating back to the 12th century!
Right in the middle of Old Town, this shopping center is all about high-end class. Its shops stock designer clothes and shoes with sushi bars and several elegant restaurants. There is also a cinema, the Palace Cinema Slovansky Dum, which shows films of the more eclectic variety.
Located in Old Town, this so-cool-it-hurts kind of clothes shop is definitely not for the person looking for a bargain. Only the classiest of brands are stocked here, like denim brand Diesel, and they are not cheap.
Admittedly 9 kilometers out of the centre of Prague, this shopping centre is worth the easy metro and bus travel to get there. There are brand name stores but there is also a bowling alley and a children’s corner along with a Cinema City that offers all types of movies for the whole family.
Prague is noted for its garnet jewelry but this store is the largest national manufacturer. From genuine gold and garnet to gold-plated silver, this shop has all kinds of jewelry pieces.
A shopping passage ideal for tourists, this place offers Bohemian crystal, souvenir shops and specialty boutiques. This place also sells other objects for the person looking for a different sort of souvenir such as Flemish tapestries and creepy marionettes and dolls.
A smaller shopping center located on Prague’s main shopping street in Old Town, this place has a mix of chain stores like H&M and Innersport with the more expensive like Calvin Klein and Marionnaud Perfumeries. There is also a little food court on the first floor with sushi and other restaurants.
Situated right above the Narodni Trida metro station, you cannot miss this five story building that buzzes with constant crowds. The basement supermarket is the busiest floor but above on the ground floor you’ll find last minute toiletries and necessities.
Located near the Mustek metro station, this is formally a produce-only market. The shops have begun to sell wooden toys and painted eggs for Easter alongside fresh honey and sweets.
Famous for its ornate designs, this shop was founded in 1857 and specializes in top quality crystal. One classic design is the Royal 9000 which is used in Prague Castle.
One of Prague’s original town fortifications, you can recognize it by its blackened appearance. It also has an observation tower.
Standing at 65m over one of the Old Town’s original gates, this used to be an 18th century gun powder store.
The cemetery is like no other on earth: over 100,000 bodies are packed into this space the size of five suburban gardens with 12,000 gravestones crookedly lining the narrow paths. To enter you must buy a ticket to the museum which comprises of six establishments: the Pinkas, Maisel and Spanish Synagogues, the Klaus Synagogue and Ceremonial Hall and of course the cemetery.
A 1920s Art Nouveau shopping arcade that runs below the Lucerna Palace this place has a cafe and club but the biggest sight here is a quirky sculpture by renowned artist David Cerny. If you want to see his sculpture, just look up: it is hanging from the atrium, depicting King Wenceslas astride the belly of a dead, upside down horse.
See how Prague looked before the walls were pulled down and St Vitus Cathedral was completed take a look at this museum. The biggest attraction is a model of the city circa the 19th century city but there are other displays that show how Prague looked from prehistoric times to the 20th century.
It’s easy to be put off by this square with its drunken stag parties, drug dealers, pickpockets and brash advertising on old buildings. However still take a look as this place is the central area of Czech history, a gathering place for demonstrators and proud Czechs; also check out Wenceslas Statue at the southern end and the Memorial to the Victims of Communism is nearby.
Held on the 6th January, this festival marks the end of the Christmas season with carolling, bell ringing and the distributing of gifts to the poor.
Occurring on the 19th of January people congregate in Wenceslas Square at the Jan Palach Memorial to pay tribute to the student who set himself on fire in 1969 in protest against Soviet occupation.
A massive carnival with street parties, fireworks and concerts that starts on Friday and culminates to a masked parade on Shrove Tuesday.
A funfair full of rollercoaster, rides and many food stalls in Vystaviste from February 24th to Easter.
This universal holiday is heralded by an old Czech ritual. In Prague men of all ages chase their beloveds and swat them on the legs with willow switches tied with ribbon. In return the women give gifts of hand painted eggs. After that the party gets started.
There are many tours in Prague, particularly of the walking variety, with some focusing on a particular area/activity in Prague (like Haunted Prague Tours). Out of the numerous websites offers a large selection of tours for choice.
Blatská 1491 (take metro to Černy most) Prayer areas for men and women and a small childrens play area.
Address: 14 Politických vězňů Street. Praha 1 Address: +420 732 11 16 11 (take metro to Muzeum)
Politických vězňů 915/14, Prague, Czech Republic
Along with buses, Prague also has a popular tram network. Both Bus and Tram services run from 5am to midnight with some night services running every 40 minutes (night bus services are 501 to 512). Night trams (51 to 58) intersect at Lazarska in Nove Mesto. Bus and tram timetables are posted at all stops and can be checked online from the public transport website. Tickets are mostly purchased from ticket machines at the stations so ensure you have coins, especially at night time. Get your ticket stamped as you board by slipping it into a box as soon as you board. Please keep in mind that inspectors, both uniformed and plain clothed, conduct regular rounds on both bus and tram routes; if your ticket is unstamped it will be confiscated and you will receive a 700 Kč fine.
Alongside the Bus and Tram services, the Metro system operates from 5am to midnight. Services are fast and frequent and there is a map at every metro station and on every train. There are three main lines: line A (marked in green) which runs from Dejvicka to Depo Hostivar; line B (yellow) runs from Zlicin to Cerny Most; and line C (red) runs from Haje to Ladvi. When you buy a ticket before boarding you punch it in a small yellow machine in the metro station. Any ticket unstamped incurrs a 700 Kč fine; a 50 Kč fine incurs if you are travelling with luggage and do not have a ticket.
If you can help it, avoid catching taxis in Prague as the city is notorious for deceptive taxi drivers who over-charge tourists. If you do not speak Czech there is a good chance you could be ripped off by a taxi driver, especially within the city. Be aware that most dishonest drivers operate around transport areas such as the railway stations and the airport; some even operate near hotels. Hence, be always alert for anything suspicious; simply walk away if you suspect something and catch another taxi. Speaking from experience, ALWAYS negotiate the price in advance, ask for the taxi meter to be turned on and for a receipt before you leave the cab. If you hail one down, always check for a recognizable company logo on the cab; it’s not a fail-safe solution but will offer some sort of satisfaction. If you suspect you’ve been ripped off, write down the car ID numbers (license plate, taxi license number on the car door, etc), the driver’s name, then contact the company (if there is one) or the police. The problem with this is that you are testifying against the driver which can prove difficult when you are a foreign tourist so be careful. An alternative way is to ask your hotel to call a taxi service for you. Use the services of proven phone-order taxi services as there have been reports of robberies on street taxis. Also be alert for an infamous taxi company, AAA Taxi s.r.o. who deliberately created its name to resemble popular AAA Radiotaxi Praha. AAA Taxi s.r.o. deliberately charges up to four times the standard fare for a taxi ride and even refuses to provide services to Czech citizens, so beware.
There are a number of rental car companies available in Prague. It is often easier to book online rather than by phone as smaller companies are less likely to have English speaking staff. The general consensus regarding the rental is that you must be 19 years old and hold a full clean license for a minimum of one year.
Prague’s Ruzyne Airport is located 17km west of city central. When you reach arrivals, locate a public transport desk and buy a ticket which will cover you for both bus and metro. Take bus 119 which runs every 15 minutes, to the end of the line at Dejvicka, then continue by metro into the city. This journey should take no more than 30minutes; 20 minutes for the bus, 10 minutes for the train.
The speed limit is 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas, 130kph (81mph) on motorways, and 90kph (56mph) everywhere else.
There are many pharmacies in Prague, identified as lékárna, and most city districts have one that stays open 24 hours. Among the most recognizable are the District Clinic (224 946 982; Palackého 5, 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat; metro Národní třída) in Nové Město and Lékárna U sv Ludmily (222 513 396; Belgická 37, 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat; metro Náměstí Míru) in Vinohrady. For emergency service after hours, push a red button marked with a sign zvonek lékárna (pharmacy bell) and/or první pomoc (first aid) to ring the bell to allow staff to let you in. Always bring enough prescription medicines for your trip as some may not be available.
