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Near the full moon all high-caste men (Chhetri and Brahmin) must change the janai (sacred thread), looped over their left shoulder. This ritual amasses thousands of pilgrims to the sacred Gosainkund lakes where they drape a garland over the statue of Shiva and throw coins at a sacred lingam and the Kumbeshwar Temple in Patan.
Near the full moon all high-caste men (Chhetri and Brahmin) must change the janai (sacred thread), looped over their left shoulder. This ritual amasses thousands of pilgrims to the sacred Gosainkund lakes where they drape a garland over the statue of Shiva and throw coins at a sacred lingam and the Kumbeshwar Temple in Patan.
Keep exploring Kathmandu.
kathmanduThis festival focuses on ritual bathing and is curiously dictated by the movement of the winter sun to the north. On the new moon day, the Tribeni Mela (mela means ‘fair’) kicks off in Devghat and Ridi Bazaar. Followers can also bathe in the Bagmati River at Patan’s Sankhamul ghat.
kathmanduThis festival heralds the beginning of spring with the honouring of Saraswati, the goddess of learning; it is held all over Kathmandu but the shrine of Saraswati, located just below the platform at the top of Swayambhunath, is the most popular place for festivities. This festival is particularly special for students and you’ll find a lot of weddings happening around this time too!
kathmanduHeralding the Tibetan New Year with the new moon in February, this festival falls in either Magh or Falgun. In the Kathmandu Valley it is welcomed at the great stupa of Bodhnath (Boudha).
kathmanduCommemorating the birthday of Shiva which falls on a new moon day in the lunar month of Falgun, this festival takes place at all Shiva temples. Hundreds of sadhus (mystics/practicing monks) flock to this festival so be prepared for crowds. You’ll also see them bathing in the Bagmati’s ‘holy’ waters.
kathmanduAlso known as Fagu or the ‘Festival of Colours’, this festival happens late in the dry season with water being sprayed around to remind people of the cooling monsoon days to come. The reason it has the ‘Festival of Colours’ tag is that coloured powder is also thrown everywhere; if you’re a foreigner you’ll probably get covered in the powder (it’s all in good fun) so leave your camera at home and wear old clothes.
kathmanduNot as large as the Rato Macchendranath festival in Patan, but still quite impressive, this festival starts with the removal of the Seto Machhendranath image from the temple of Kel Tole in Kathmandu. The image is then placed on a towering, tottering rath (chariot) then locals drag it through the streets of the city’s old town for the next four days.
kathmanduTaking place six months prior to the more important Dasain celebration, both festivals are dedicated to Durga. The festival culminates in the early morning sacrifice of goats and buffaloes in Kot Square, central Kathmandu. The Chaitra Dasain festival also heralds the start of the month-long Seto Machhendranath chariot festival in the city.
kathmanduCelebrate Nepali New Year in mid-April which begins at the start of Baisakh. The best place to celebrate this festival is in Bhaktapur which hosts an exciting chariot festival.
kathmanduThe Nepali Army hosts a horse racing day at the Tundikhel parade ground in Kathmandu. A chance to showcase the army’s equestrian (and motorcycle) skills, the festival also has some myth surrounding its horses: legend has it they are raced to trample demons that would rise from the earth to create havoc on this day.
kathmanduHeld in Lumbini (the birthplace of Buddha) on the date of Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and ascension into nirvana (all the same day), this festival is celebrated with a great fair. Full moon celebrations continue in Swayambhunath, Bodhnath and Patan, with monks dancing being one of the highlights.
Keep exploring Kathmandu.
kathmanduVery few people travel with their children in Nepal as it has very limited activities for them to take part in, not to mention the high risk of disease. Nepalese cuisine might also be trying for children that are not used to spicy food and highchairs are almost nonexistent in the rural areas. Like most capital cities, Kathmandu has a zoo (Central Zoo, Jawalahel, Patan, 5528023, adult/child Rs 150/100) which lots of exotic animals. The best thing about it is that it’s one of the most reputable places that will let you ride an elephant (for only $1.50), you can even hire one for the hour at $15.15. Some hotels also have swimming pools that can be used for a small price; alternatively check out the public pools in Balaju and the National Stadium. There are also hot air balloon flights that are priced at US$250. If your child wants something more simple, head to Pilgrims Book House (Thamel, Kathmandu, 977-1-4700942, 8am to 10pm daily) which stocks kids books.
kathmanduA three-roof building that according to local lore was constructed in the 12th century from the wood of a single sal tree. It was first used as a community centre for the congregation of the people before major events. It was later converted into a temple dedicated to Gorakhnath a 13th century abstinent who was linked to the royal family. Currently the building houses an image of a god which is interesting as Gorakhnath is represented by only his footprints. The four corners of the building have images of Ganesh.
kathmanduA small area within Dunbar Square, this place serves as the inner palace complex that was originally founded during the Licchavi period (4th to 8th centuries AD). The structure that stands today was constructed by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century. There are now ten chowks (courtyards) to explore here; cameras are allowed here but not within the buildings of the complex. The Hanuman Statue marks the entrance to Hanuman Dhoka and dates to 1672.
kathmanduA fence enclosed tank, just off Kantipath is said to have been built by King Pratap Malla for his grief-stricken wife after the accidental death of their son in 1667. The pokhari (pool) was used during the Malla era for trials by ordeal and later became a suicide spot; because of this, the tank is opened only one day a year, the fifth day of the Tihar festival.
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kathmanduFound next to the Snachaya Kosh Bhawan Shopping Centre in Thamel, these temples are often ignored. Symbolically located on the Trivdevi Marg (‘tri’ means three and ‘devi’ means goddesses), these temples pay tribute to Dakshinkali, Manakamana and Jawalamai.
kathmanduThe busiest square in the city, from dawn to dusk it is crammed with vendors selling spices and vegetables from all over the country. It is fitting then that Annapurna Temple is dedicated to the goddess of abundance, represented by a purana bowl of grain. On Sundays and other days of the week, you’ll see locals walk around the shrine, touch a coin to their heads, throw it into the temple then ring the little bell above their heads. Nearby is the two-storey Ganesh shrine and on the western side of the shrine are spice shops.
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kathmanduTall and triple roofed, this temple sits at what once was the site of the ancient city during the Licchavi period (during the 4th and 8th centuries). This temple is a Shiva one as specified by the bull on the steps and the mildly erotic carvings on the temple struts. To the west of the temple you’ll find the Ram Chandra Temple, named after Ram – an incarnation of Vishnu and the hero of the Hindu epic, the Ramayana.
kathmanduLocated outside the ring road surrounding Kathmandu, this Buddhist temple is considered to be one of the definitive experiences of the city. Nicknames the ‘Monkey Temple’ given the mass of monkeys you’ll find, the compound is centred around a white stupa, topped by a spire with the painted eyes of Buddha. It is a great place to see the sun set over Kathmandu and the mystical atmosphere of ancient carvings and prayer wheels everywhere is heightened by all the morning and evening pilgrims who come here to make a ritual circumnavigation of the stupa.
Keep exploring Kathmandu.
kathmanduAddress: Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Located near the Hotel de l’Annapurna, this restaurant serves fast food from a full menu of halal food, including lamb, chicken and vegetarian fast food. Alcoholic drinks are not served at the restaurant.
kathmanduAddress: Babar Mahal Revisited, Maitighar, Kathmandu Tel: +9771 4263070
kathmanduAddress: Dunbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: +9771 4248999 Located within the Yak and Yeti Hotel, this restaurant is one of the most famous in Kathmandu. It’s named after the open fireplace and serves mostly continental dishes like chicken a la Kiev.
kathmanduLocation: Dunbar Marg, Kathmandu Found inside the Hotel de l’Annapurna, this restaurant serves north Indian cuisine with tandoori dishes and pistachio sherbet for dessert. In the evening, the Indian atmosphere is heightened by the classical music played and traditional love songs which are sung by artists.
kathmanduLocation: Kantipath, Kathmandu Tel: +9771 4225272
kathmanduLocation: Kamaladi, east of Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: +9771 4225172
kathmanduLocation: Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: +9771 4700612
kathmanduLocation: Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: +9771 4250441
kathmanduLocation: Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: +9771 425510
kathmanduLocation: Thamel, Kathmandu Tel: +9771 4412158 You’ll find a mix of Indian and Tibetan food here with interesting Bhutanese dishes such as kewa dhatsi (potatoes and cheese curry) and thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup). The place has a nice garden set-up.