Top places to visit

Sana'a is not really much of an amusement for children, unless your six year old has a hereditary interest in anthropology or history. Yemeni children have few activities besides running about in streets populated by men with daggers – not much of a concern for the mothers, as there are no kidnappers or pedophiles around. It is pretty common to see a swarm of kids rolling along a street or public square, chasing anything from a stray dog to a worn-out tire – this in itself provides ample entertainment for a group of toddlers accompanying you.

The neighborhood contains multistoried residential buildings, some of which have been standing for more than four centuries. Constructed out of local basalt stone and ornamented with intricately carved friezes and moldings, the facades of these houses form a continuous, harmonious urban fabric that can, when viewed at a distance, generate a splendid skyline as a backdrop for the modern city, and, when viewed up close, give a nostalgic but welcoming feeling that leaves many a traveler spellbound.

The seven centuries old, 40 feet high mud wall that goes around the old city is also quite well-preserved, and is a sight in itself. It contains the Bab-al-Yemen, a large portal that celebrates the entrance into the old city. Out of the original six gates that marked the entry into Sana'a, it is the only one surviving in its original shape. Slip into a time warp as you pass through the large gate, being sucked into a busy marketplace that has existed at the very same place for centuries. You can go up to the top of the gate for some splendid views around the marketplace below, and the old town beyond. As trading activities cease around late evening, soft, hazy illumination lights up the gate, adding a visually alluring touch of magic to it.

This is the small art gallery/museum that is situated, as the name suggests, right next to the Bab-al-Yemen. It allows passage from the street to the top of the Bab. Although you may just pass the gallery simply to get to the top of the gate to shoot a few photos, the gallery in itself isn’t such a disappointing sight either. It contains artistic work by up-and-coming artists, most of them young, energetic folk from around Sana'a, at quite affordable rates.

For a city with a shortage of public water supply, the old city area is pretty rich in horticulture. Almost every house has an attached courtyard garden, and scattered about the streets are hedges blossoming with colors more varied than those on a Photoshop palette. Larger gardens are situated close to mosques, as water is easier to come by. Some gardens are situated below the street, to catch any water that is draining off. Rooftop gardens, more of a private retreat, are also visible from the ground – you can see overhanging vines, multicolored plant pots, and tamed birds prancing about.

The best preserved relic of a thousand years of Islamic rule, this is the richest marketplace in all the Arabian Peninsula. It is a large, open-air market, covered in patches by plastic, fabrics, wooden planks, hides, and any other material that the locals could find, giving a literal manifestation to the symbolic merging of cultures and ethnicities within the city. Divided into sections according to the types of goods on sale, including eatables, wearables, disposables, and the like. The marketplace is very active all through the morning, but mellows down towards the late afternoon, when the hawkers resort to qat and tea sessions. This is the ideal moment to strike up ridiculous bargains – vendors, in their laidback mood, usually comply.

Bathhouses that are remnants of Turkish Ottoman legacy. Old Sana'a contains more than a dozen hammams, of which the Hammam al Maidan is the most popular among locals. It is open till late hours of the night, and contains separate bathing facilities for men and women.

Located on Hadda Street, off al-Quds Street in the Old Town, this place is managed by a Franco-Yemeni agency, and organizes concerts, themed plays, educational lectures, cultural exhibitions, and linguistic classes. Visit this gallery/museum/cultural retreat to witness an amazing blend of local and French art in a variety of media.

A large green space for the public, located close to the Expo Apollo on al-Jazair Road. Splendid landscape, rich variety of flowering shrubs, and shaded sitting areas positioned strategically to give magnificent views, this is the place you would want to retreat to after a long, tiring walk in the Old Town.

The main public piazza of the city, this square acts as an intersection between two of Sana'a’s major urban districts. It is consequently lined with eateries and shopping outlets, features a mesmerizing fountain in the center, and is a popular hangout space for residents of the surrounding neighborhoods. In addition, the square also acts as the city’s cultural center – it contains 3 major museums of the country along its peripheries. Friday mornings are very active, as local men take leisure walks around the square, chatting away as time stands still, and vendors put up temporary stalls selling books and eatables. From here you can take a public bus to any part of Sana'a – after you have explored the cultural wealth surrounding the square!

Address: al-Tahrir Square Timings: Saturdays to Thursdays 9am to 12noon, 3pm to 5pm. Fridays 9am to 12pm only Entrance: YER 500

Address: Gamal Abdul Nasser Street, western corner of al-Tahrir Square Phone: 276635 Timings: 3pm to 5pm

Address: north corner of al-Tahreer Square Timings: 8am to 5pm

Address: street market, from the Shari’ Ali’ Abdul Mughni to the entrance to Old Sana'a

Address: city center, Sana'a If you are into history and culture but not really into museums, the University can offer you a more interesting alternative to walking clueless down long corridors of museum exhibits. A varied, more interactive approach to learning about the city, with a welcoming staff, a number of specialized libraries, and interesting exhibits housing mummies, handicrafts, and the like. All this and a charming campus with tea stalls at every corner.

Address: al-Sabeen Street, off 60 Meters Street Named in remembrance of the two-month long siege during 1967-68, after which the Republican Armed Forces established a Republican Government in the country after overthrowing the Royal Forces and the monarchy. This large public square commemorates the battles fought during that siege. It holds a few monuments, including the popular Monument to the Unknown Soldier. The square features beautiful landscaping, and is accented with charming illumination at night. Modern day Sana'a sees the Square as the starting point of cultural parades and processions, and as a gathering place for large open-air events.

Address: located right next to the al-Sabeen Square off 45 Meters Road. This large, gently rolling landscape marvel is the venue for frequent local fairs and events. It is Sana'a’s largest public park, and houses a colorful assortment of flowering plants, offering locals and tourists alike a relaxing environment to let go after a long day.

Address: to the south of Sabeen Park Tickets: YER 200 A decent amusement venue that can be termed as modern, in the broader sense of the word. Good place to bring kids and family. Contains a bowling alley, rides, dodgem cars, and several reasonable diners.

Address: 10 km outside Sana'a Tickets: YER 500 A green valley, a rural setting, open pastures, a rocky cliff, on top of which sits a large palatial complex – welcome to the Wadi al-Dahr, a heavenly retreat far from the maddening crowds of city life. The valley houses the Dar al-Hajjah, a palace built in 1935 for Yahya, the last Imam, which displays the epitome of centuries old construction techniques that popularize Sana'a’s skyscrapers. It is the fascinating external architecture that is the main attraction of this place – one can spend hours taking photographs of ramparts, walls, intricately molded friezes, and the sharply perpendicular cubical volumes. Inside you will find a splendid display of photography by the Dutch explorer van der Meulen who is known for his exploits all through Yemen. You can easily reach the place via taxi – a mere 20-30 minutes ride depending on how quickly you can get out of the city.